Bhutan, The Eternal Kingdom Beckons

Traveling to Bhutan—Asia’s “must go to” destination—is no easy task either for visitors seeking a peek at the enchanted land that has been justifiably labeled “The Last Shangri-La,” or for agents booking trips into this splendid geographical marvel.

Sometimes it’s thorny to grasp that this tiny chunk of real estate squeezed between India and China and a tad smaller than West Virginia, may be the last place on earth where the enduring coexists with the contemporary, where dazzling vistas intermingle with passionate Buddhist devoutness, and where foreigners are still perceived as something of a curiosity.

This is a country that holds its cards close to its vest. Government regulations appear to have been specifically written to keep tourists at arm’s length. Its rigid entry guidelines have led to the myth that a quota exists on the number of tourists allowed per year. But that is just that: a myth.

In fact, when confronted with the strict guidelines the Bhutanese government mandates—including a tourist tariff of $250 pp per day (the government-mandated amount that each visitor must spend while in country, but which includes hotels, meals, transportation, etc.)—a modern traveler contemplating a visit is likely to ask, “Why the attitude?”

According to a staffer at the Tourism Council of Bhutan who, of course, prefers to remain anonymous, “The guidelines were set up to avoid the negative impact on [Bhutan’s] culture and environment. Last year, the kingdom allowed only about 105,000 visitors who were either guests of the government or traveling on approved tours. We don’t foresee any increase this year.”

The entry guidelines are indeed inflexible: All tourists (groups or individuals) must travel on a pre-planned, prepaid, guided package tour or custom-designed travel program. Independent travel is not permitted in Bhutan.

Bureaucratic procedures aside, selling Bhutan is easy. Not only will travelers experience the once-in-a-lifetime thrill of visiting a place that with its self-imposed isolation has no rival, but will be exposed to a culture that seems contentedly mired in an astonishing Himalayan time warp.

After all, where else can one hear the singsong chants of young monks cloistered in a sparkling monastery with a backdrop of snow-dusted hills? What other country flaunts its traditional dress, a charming, centuries’ old garment, as the preferred attire of Bhutanese daily life?

That, and much more, awaits visitors.

country highlights

Much has been written about how the country does not rate success through economic indexes. Instead, its productivity is measured in “Gross National Happiness,” a government policy that puts the well-being of its citizens at the forefront.

In Thimphu, the national capital and Bhutan’s largest city, happiness and good cheer seem alive—and when it comes to exotic destinations, the city is a showstopper. Here, most visitors will want to gape at the royal residence; the Changangkha Lhakhang Temple; folk heritage museums and weaving centers where the exquisite workmanship of Bhutanese cloth makers is evident. Here, there are no traffic lights (one was set up a few years ago, but was taken down because Bhutanese thought it to be antagonistic) in the sparklingly clean city that literally sprouts from a pine forest (after all, 75 percent of Bhutan is still covered with trees and its peaceful atmosphere prevails).

Thimphu, too, is the gateway to sites with quixotic names like the Snow Lion Cave, a holy place surrounded by delicate waterfalls and small monasteries where monks meditate on the roof of the world while weaving thanka, the elegant Buddhist tapestries that can be bought at ridiculously low prices.

And what type of traveler exactly ventures into this Himalayan wonderland?

According to Edwin Blythe, president of Zegrahm Expeditions, traveling to see the wonders in Bhutan comes with a caveat requiring “a moderate level of activity…Bhutan had long been closed to foreigners and its tourist infrastructure is in its infancy. Participants should note that on some days the itinerary includes long bus journeys often over unpaved roads. In addition, weather-related problems could dictate a change of itinerary and hotels. We use the best available accommodations…but they may not always be up to Western standards. Most of the places we visit are at high elevations and some individuals may experience altitude sickness.”

Zegrahm Expeditions’ next scheduled trek to Bhutan (from about $8,970 pp dbl) is a 14-day journey designed for a maximum of 18. It is slated for mid-April next year.

Tour highlights show off the country’s most beautiful assets and ones that are included in most tours of Bhutan. There are visits to the fabled Tiger’s Nest Monastery, a Himalayan architectural wonder improbably balanced on the edge of a 3,000-ft. cliff high above rice fields and considered one of the kingdom’s most sacred religious sites.

The 90-minute hike to reach the monastery’s gates unwinds through pine forests and past astonishing Buddhist shrines with prayer flags flapping in the thin air. It is one of the most striking panoramas in Asia—a Kodak moment if ever there was one.

The Tourism Council of Bhutan strictly manages tourism to the splendid structure, and a government-licensed guide must accompany all foreigners.

There are also options for active hikes and wildlife viewing in the Phobjika Valley where timing and luck make it possible to see rare creatures like black-necked cranes, wild boar, barking deer, Himalayan black bears and leopards.

Since Bhutan has sparked such interest from visitors, travel agents face hurdles that are vastly different from booking a trip to destinations with easier access. Hima Singh, president of Asian-Pacific Adventures, says that “when a prospective client comes in expressing an interest in Bhutan a travel agent should immediately contact a reputed tour operator with a long-standing track record to assist in booking a group or a private custom tour.”

She emphasizes: “The most important fact is that you cannot book Bhutan on your own, or saunter into the country as a backpacker. You must book Bhutan with a bona fide tour operator. Travel agents should be aware of what the client’s interests are; what is the budget; what type of hotels the client prefers; what type of activities, like hiking, is the client seeking; is the client a nature lover who will love the orchids grown in Bhutan? Is the client interested in the textiles the country is famous for? Those are very important questions.”

Singh adds that travel agents and their clients should speak directly with tour operators to outline the itinerary and discuss proposals for land and air transportation and make necessary deposits before setting up the trip.

Whatever the tour, visitors are almost guaranteed to leave the country with deep impressions that will make Bhutan stand out as perhaps the most distinctive destination in Asia.

getting there

A new airline, Bhutan Airlines, was launched in October with flights from Bangkok to Paro, the country’s only international airport. Additional service from Singapore, Nepal, Dubai, Bangladesh and Hong Kong lies in the future. Bhutan Airlines will complement Drukair, the national airline that offers service throughout Asia.

The 3-hour flight from Bangkok (from about $720 roundtrip) offers both premium and economy cabins, and as the aircraft approaches Paro, passengers are treated to one of the most spectacular airline descents in the world: 19,000-ft. peaks seem to float past the windows on both sides, revealing all the splendor of the Himalayas before a thrilling landing.